Matera: Exploring Italy's Ancient City of Caves

Matera is a city unlike any other in Italy—or the world. Located in the remote Basilicata region, it is famous for its 'Sassi', an intricate network of cave dwellings carved directly into the limestone cliffs. Once considered the 'shame of Italy' due to extreme poverty, Matera has undergone a miraculous renaissance to become a UNESCO World Heritage site and, in 2019, a European Capital of Culture.

What makes it worth prioritising now is that the crowds still haven't caught up with the reputation. While Rome, Florence, and the Amalfi Coast strain under peak-season visitor numbers, Matera's remote position in Italy's instep means you can still wander the Sassi at golden hour with the alleyways largely to yourself.

A City Carved in Stone

Walking through Matera feels like stepping back in time. The city is believed to have been inhabited since the Paleolithic era, making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements on Earth. The Sassi districts—Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano—are a labyrinth of alleys, staircases, and hidden courtyards that reveal breathtaking views at every turn.

Top Things to Do in Matera

1. Sleep in a Cave Hotel

You can't visit Matera without spending the night in a restored cave. Many of the ancient dwellings have been transformed into luxurious boutique hotels. Sleeping under vaulted stone ceilings is a truly unforgettable and atmospheric experience.

2. Explore Casa Noha

To truly appreciate Matera, you must understand its history. Casa Noha, run by the Italian Environment Fund (FAI), offers a deeply moving multimedia exhibit projected onto the walls of a 16th-century house. It tells the story of the city's dark past, the mass evacuations of the 1950s, and its eventual rebirth.

3. Visit the Rupestrian Churches

Hidden within the caves are over 150 'rupestrian' (rock-cut) churches, many featuring beautifully preserved Byzantine frescoes dating back to the 8th century. Santa Maria de Idris, perched dramatically on a rock outcropping, is one of the most spectacular.

Hiking the Murgia National Park

For the most iconic panoramic view of Matera, you need to hike across the ravine into the Murgia Materana Park. A suspension bridge crosses the Gravina river, leading you to ancient caves used by shepherds and breathtaking vantage points that are especially magical at sunset when the city lights up like a nativity scene.

Best Time to Visit Matera

The shoulder seasons—April to June and September to October—are comfortably the best windows. Spring brings wildflowers to the Murgia plateau across the ravine, while early autumn keeps the long evenings without the heat.

July and August are worth avoiding if you have any flexibility. Matera is built entirely from pale limestone, and the stone absorbs and radiates heat all day, so the Sassi stay noticeably hotter than the surrounding countryside well into the evening. The staircase-heavy layout means there is no version of sightseeing here that doesn't involve constant climbing, which compounds the problem. Winter is quiet and atmospheric but many cave interiors are cold and damp, and some smaller sites reduce their hours.

Getting There & Getting Around

Matera has no airport of its own and, unusually for an Italian city of its profile, no mainline national rail station. The standard approach is to fly into Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport (BRI), roughly 65 km away, then take a direct shuttle bus or the regional Ferrovie Appulo Lucane train, both of which take around an hour. Naples is the other common gateway, about three hours by bus.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) — Visiting Matera

How many days do you need in Matera?

Two nights is the sweet spot. That gives you a full day for the Sassi districts and the rupestrian churches, an evening for the blue-hour views, and a half day to hike across the ravine into the Murgia park. A single night works if you're passing through from Bari, but you'll miss the sunset and sunrise light that make the city memorable.

Is Matera worth visiting compared to Rome or Florence?

It offers something neither can: an intact prehistoric cave city you can sleep inside. Matera isn't a substitute for Italy's art capitals—it has far fewer museums and no comparable galleries—but as a two-night detour it delivers a landscape and atmosphere you won't find anywhere else in Europe.

Can you sleep in a real cave in Matera?

Yes. Many of the original Sassi dwellings have been restored into boutique cave hotels, ranging from simple rooms to high-end suites with vaulted stone ceilings and original rock walls. They are the defining accommodation experience here and should be booked well in advance for shoulder-season dates.

How do you get to Matera without a car?

Fly into Bari (BRI) and connect by direct shuttle bus or the Ferrovie Appulo Lucane regional train, each taking roughly an hour. Once you arrive, a car is more hindrance than help—the Sassi are entirely pedestrian.